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Article: Corsets et tiroirs: un regard sur les sous-vêtements Regency

Corsets and Drawers: A Look at Regency Underwear - JaneAusten.co.uk
corset

Corsets et tiroirs: un regard sur les sous-vêtements Regency

Les jeunes femmes à la mode de la régence ont eu la chance d'échapper à une constriction qui avait hanté la vie de leurs mères et qui tomberait plus tard à leurs filles et petites-filles: le corset anéné. Là où la Sillouette géorgienne et victorienne a appelé à des tailles et à des dos droit anormalement, des designers pendant la régence ont été captivés par la «forme féminine naturelle».

S'inspirant de la statuaire grecque et romaine classique (toutes choses que la Grèce ancienne était la rage à ce moment), ils permettaient des robes de colonne avec un minimum de volant. Là où une fois des couches de cerceaux et de jupons se sont réinjectés, la forme de la robe presque moderne a maintenant pris le dessus. Les taies ont été élevées juste sous le sein tandis que les jupes étaient liées.

Ces nouveaux styles ont appelé à un tout nouveau type de vêtement de soutien. Ainsi est né le court corset, anti-porteurs des sous-vêtements modernes d'aujourd'hui. Contrairement aux corsets victoriens qui se sont accrochés à l'avant et ont lacé à l'arrière, les corsets plus anciens ne se sont empêchés que du dos en zigzag en utilisant une corde - le laçage de croisement serait inventé plus tard - et raidis à l'avant avec un busk en bois sculpté ou en os qui busk qui a été sculpté en bois qui a sculpté en bois qui busk qui a sculpté en bois qui a sculpté en bois qui busk qui a sculpté en bois ou en os qui busk qui busk qui ont sculpté en bois ou en os qui ont scrou a créé une posture droite et séparé les seins de l'effet «soulevant», si populaire à l'époque. Les corsets de prérégence ont contraint le corps des hanches à la ligne du buste et ont été maintenus avec des sangles sur les épaules où les manches de la robe pouvaient être lacé.

Ces corsets pourraient être un vêtement séparé porté sous les vêtements, ou utilisé comme corsage de la robe elle-même. Il serait porté sur une chimise et des bas (genou à la cuisse haut et résolu avec des jarretières).

Dans les jupons et les sacoches des années 1700, seraient portés à ce sujet, bien que pendant la régence, cela ait été réduit à un jupon - et seulement si nécessaire. Les tiroirs ne seraient inventés qu'en 1806. Jusque-là, les femmes se déplaçaient de tout autre sous-vêtement. Le «nouveau» corset Regency était une combinaison intelligente de sangles, de bandes et de lacets. Ils sont venus dans de nombreux styles, certains pour contrôler la figure, certains pour pousser le sein vers le haut et sortir dans un écran en forme de plateau. Deux de ces types sont présentés sur cette photo de 1819 séjour du musée Kyoto au Japon. Ils seraient raidis avec des cordons ou des séjours, bien que la silhouette désosée de baleine serrée soit encore des décennies.

Ces corsets étaient principalement favorables, similaires aux soutiens-gorge d'aujourd'hui - et non contraignants ou dangereux pour la santé, comme le seraient certains corsets ultérieurs. Bien sûr, toutes les femmes ne portaient même pas de corsets! Certains se sont installés pour une chimise en désossé (ou jupon corsé à désosser) ou une chimise avec un ruban attaché sous le sein pour améliorer. Tout dépendait du style recherché, de la forme du porteur et de l'investissement financier qu'ils souhaitaient faire.

De nombreuses histoires sont racontées, à la fois les filles amusantes et exaspérantes pour modifier leur sous-jardin pour répondre à leurs styles et à leurs besoins. Des contes sont racontés des filles qui portaient des bas roses (choquants!) Pour simuler la chair nue et d'autres qui ont atténué leurs chimises pour un effet transparent à travers leurs robes blanches et pastel (populaires auprès des hommes, j'en suis sûr!)

Les tiroirs, une version modifiée du vêtement masculin, attaché à la taille avec une ficelle et divisée au milieu, étaient rares pour les vêtements pour femmes pendant les 20 premières années des années 1800, bien que populaires sur les jeunes filles. La princesse Charlotte est censée avoir les usées avec joie, à l'étonnement de plusieurs autres dames, bien que cette femme n'ait pas eu la même expérience heureuse:

"Ce sont les choses les plus laides que j'aie jamais vues: je ne les remettrai plus jamais. J'ai traîné ma robe dans la saleté de peur que quelqu'un l'espionne. Ma plus belle paire de dimités avec une vraie dentelle suisse est tout à fait inutile pour moi car j'ai perdu une jambe et ne l'a pas jugé approprié de le ramasser, et ainsi est parti en le laissant dans la rue derrière moi, et la dentelle avait coûté six shillings par mètre ... "

Bien sûr, les hommes avaient leurs propres articles - les cornes sont une invention relativement nouvelle, mais avant l'avènement des tiroirs pour hommes, ils n'avaient que leurs longues chemises à rentrer dans leur pantalon. Plus tard, les tiroirs - similaires à des shorts avec un cordon et des volets boutonnés ont été inventés, au grand soulagement de chacun. Au moment de la régence, les hommes portaient normalement des tiroirs en coton, une chemise en lin ou en mousseline, peut-être un corset (oui, même les hommes ne se sont pas échappés!) Selon l'homme, les bas puis les pantalons (ou les knickers), la cravate, gilet et manteau.

Pourquoi ne pas parcourir notre section des costumes Dans notre GiftShop en ligne pour les costumes, les modèles et les accessoires?

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