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Artikel: Korsetten en laden: een blik op regency-ondergoed

Corsets and Drawers: A Look at Regency Underwear - JaneAusten.co.uk
corset

Korsetten en laden: een blik op regency-ondergoed

Modieuze jonge dames van de Regency waren het geluk om te ontsnappen aan één vernauwing die het leven van hun moeders had achtervolgd en later op hun dochters en kleindochters zou vallen: het uitgebeend korset. Waar zowel de Georgische als Victoriaanse Sillouette opgeroepen tot onnatuurlijke kleine waïsters en rechte ruggen, werden ontwerpers tijdens de regenties gefascineerd door de "natuurlijke vrouwelijke vorm".

Tekening inspiratie van klassiek Grieks en Romeinse beeldhouwauto's (alle dingen die Ancient Griekenland op dit moment de woede waren), mogen ze kiezen voor kolomjurken met minimale flouncing. Waar eenmaal lagen hoepels en petticoats reinig zijn, nam nu bijna de moderne kledingvorm over. Waïsts werden opgevoed tot gewoon onder de boezem, terwijl rokken gratis hingen.

Deze nieuwe stijlen hebben een geheel nieuw type ondersteuningskledingstuk genoemd. Aldus werd het korte korset geboren, voorbeheerd tot de moderne onderkleding van vandaag. In tegenstelling tot Victoriaanse korsetten die aan de voorkant haakten en de achterkant opvolgen, namen oudere korsetten alleen naar de achterkant op in een zigzag-mode met behulp van één string-cross-sluiting zou later op en verstijfd worden uitgevonden aan de voorkant met een gesneden houten of bot-busk creëerde een rechte houding en scheidde de boezem voor het "deining" -effect, zo populair op dat moment. Pre-Regency Corsets beperkt het lichaam van de heupen naar de buste-lijn en werden gehouden met riemen over de schouders waar toga-hoezen zouden kunnen worden ingekeurd.

Deze korsetten kunnen een afzonderlijk kledingstuk worden gedragen onder kleding, of gebruikt als het lijfje van de jurk zelf. Het zou over een chemise en kousen worden gedragen (knie tot dij hoog en gehouden met garters).

In de 1700-petticoats en fietstassen zouden erover worden gedragen, hoewel dit tijdens het regentschap dit werd afgeslankd tot één petticoat - en alleen indien nodig. Laden zouden pas 1806 worden uitgevonden. Tot die tijd liepen vrouwen vrij van andere onderkleding. Het "nieuwe" Regency Corset was een slimme combinatie van riemen, tapes en veters. Ze kwamen in veel stijlen - sommigen voor het besturen van de figuur, sommige voor het duwen van de boezem op en uit in een plankachtig display. Twee van deze typen worden weergegeven in deze foto van 1819 verblijven van het Kyoto-museum in Japan. Ze zouden worden verstijfd met CORDING of een verblijf, hoewel de strakke walvis figuur nog decennia was.

Deze korsetten waren meestal ondersteunend, vergelijkbaar met de beha's van vandaag en niet vernauwen of gevaarlijk voor de gezondheid, omdat sommige latere korsetten zouden zijn. Natuurlijk droegen niet alle vrouwen zelfs korsetten! Sommigen geregeld voor een uitgebeend chemise (of uitgebeend, gestilde petticoat) of een chemise met een lint vastgebonden onder de boezem voor verbetering. Het was allemaal afhankelijk van de gevraagde stijl, de vorm van de drager en de financiële investering die ze wenste te maken.

Veel verhalen worden verteld, zowel de leuke als erkendende meisjes hadden om hun onderkleding te wijzigen om aan hun stijlen en behoeften te voldoen. Tales worden verteld over meisjes die roze kousen droegen (schokkend!) Om kale vlees en anderen te simuleren die hun chemots zijn gedempt voor een doorzichtig effect door hun witte en pasteljurken (populair bij de mannen, weet ik zeker!)

Laden, een gewijzigde versie van het herenkleding, vastgebonden in de taille met een touwtje en splitsen in het midden, waren ongebruikelijk voor dameskleding voor de eerste 20 jaar van de 1800's, hoewel populair op jonge meisjes. Princess Charlotte zou moeten hebben gedragen met Glee, veel aan de verbazing van verschillende andere dames, hoewel deze vrouw niet dezelfde gelukkige ervaring had:

"Het zijn de lelijkste dingen die ik ooit heb gezien: ik zal ze nooit weer aanzetten, ik sleepte mijn jurk in het vuil omdat iemand ze zou bespioneren, mijn mooiste dimiteitspaar met echt Zwitserse kant is vrij nutteloos voor mij voor mij en acht het niet geprezen om het op te halen, en dus liep weg om het op straat achter me te laten, en het kant had zes shilling een tuin gekost ... "

Natuurlijk hadden mannen hun eigen items-undershirts een relatief nieuwe uitvinding, maar vóór de komst van herenladen hadden ze niets anders dan hun lange shirts om in hun broek te stoppen. Later werden laden - vergelijkbaar met shorts met een trekkoord en knooppappen uitgevonden, veel voor iedereen's opluchting. Ten tijde van de Regency dragen mannen normaal gesproken katoenen laden, een linnen of mousseline shirt, misschien een korset (ja, zelfs niet de mannen ontsnapten!) Afhankelijk van de man, kousen en vervolgens broek (of knickers), cravat, vest en jas.

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