Corsés y cajones: una mirada a la ropa interior Regency

Las jóvenes a la moda de la Regencia tuvieron la suerte de escapar de una constricción que había perseguido las vidas de sus madres y que luego caería ante sus hijas y nietas: el corsé deshuesado. Donde tanto la sillouette georgiana como la victoriana exigían cinturas anormalmente pequeñas y espaldas rectas, los diseñadores durante la Regencia quedaron cautivados por la "forma femenina natural". Inspirándose en las estatuas clásicas griegas y romanas (todas las cosas de la antigua Grecia estaban de moda en este momento) permitieron vestidos de columna con un mínimo de volantes. Donde antes dominaban las capas de aros y enaguas, ahora la forma de vestido casi moderna se hizo cargo. Las cinturas se levantaron hasta justo debajo del pecho mientras que las faldas colgaban libremente. Estos nuevos estilos requerían un nuevo tipo de prenda de soporte. Así nació el corsé corto, antecedente de la ropa interior moderna de hoy. A diferencia de los corsés victorianos que se enganchaban en la parte delantera y se ataban en la espalda, los corsés más antiguos solo se ataban en la espalda en forma de zigzag usando una cuerda (los cordones cruzados se inventarían más adelante) y reforzados en la parte delantera con un busk de madera o hueso tallado que Creó una postura recta y separó los pechos para el efecto de "levantamiento", tan popular en ese momento. Los corsés anteriores a la Regencia restringían el cuerpo desde las caderas hasta la línea del busto y se sujetaban con correas sobre los hombros, donde se podían atar las mangas de la bata. Estos corsés pueden ser una prenda separada que se usa debajo de la ropa o como el corpiño del vestido en sí. Se usaría sobre una camisola y medias (hasta la rodilla hasta el muslo y sostenido con ligas). En la década de 1700, se usaban enaguas y alforjas sobre eso, aunque durante la Regencia esto se redujo a una enagua, y solo si era necesario. Los cajones no se inventarían hasta 1806. Hasta entonces, las mujeres caminaban libres de cualquier otra ropa interior. El “nuevo” Regency Corset fue una inteligente combinación de correas, cintas y cordones. Vienen en muchos estilos, algunos para controlar la figura, otros para empujar el pecho hacia arriba y hacia afuera en una exhibición similar a un estante. Dos de estos tipos se muestran en esta imagen de estancias de 1819 del Museo de Kioto en Japón. Se endurecerían con cuerdas o tirantes, aunque la figura de huesos de ballena apretada todavía estaba a décadas de distancia. Estos corsés eran en su mayoría de apoyo, similares a los sujetadores de hoy, y no apretaban ni peligroso para la salud como serían algunos corsés posteriores. ¡Por supuesto, no todas las mujeres usaban corsés! Algunos se conformaron con una camisola deshuesada (o una enagua con cuerpo deshuesado) o una camisola con una cinta atada debajo del pecho para realzar. Todo dependía del estilo que se buscaba, la forma del usuario y la inversión financiera que deseaba realizar.

Se cuentan muchas historias, tanto de la diversión como de la exasperación que tenían las chicas al modificar su ropa interior para adaptarla a sus estilos y necesidades. Se cuentan historias de chicas que usaban medias rosas (¡impactante!) Para simular la carne desnuda y otras que humedecían sus camisas para lograr un efecto transparente a través de sus vestidos blancos y pasteles (¡popular entre los hombres, estoy seguro!). La versión modificada de la prenda para hombres, atada a la cintura con una cuerda y dividida en el medio, era poco común para las mujeres durante los primeros 20 años del siglo XIX, aunque era popular entre las niñas. Se supone que la princesa Charlotte tiene los usó con alegría, para asombro de varias otras damas, aunque esta mujer no tuvo la misma experiencia feliz: "Son las cosas más feas que he visto en mi vida: no me las volveré a poner nunca más. Arrastré mi vestido en la tierra por miedo a que alguien los espíe. Mi mejor par de dimity con encaje suizo real es bastante inútil para mí porque perdí una pierna y no creí conveniente recogerlo, así que se fue dejándolo en la calle detrás de mí, y el cordón había costado seis chelines el metro ... " Por supuesto, los hombres tenían sus propios artículos: las camisetas interiores son un invento relativamente nuevo, pero antes de la llegada de los cajones de los hombres, no tenían nada más que sus camisas largas para meterse en los pantalones. Más tarde, se inventaron los calzones, similares a los pantalones cortos con cordón y solapas abotonadas, para alivio de todos. En la época de la Regencia, los hombres normalmente usaban calzoncillos de algodón, una camisa de lino o muselina, tal vez un corsé (¡sí, ni siquiera los hombres escaparon!) Dependiendo del hombre, medias y luego pantalones (o bragas), corbata, chaleco y abrigo. ¿Por qué no navegar por nuestro sección de vestuarioen nuestra tienda de regalos online para disfraces, patrones y accesorios?

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