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Articolo: Corsetti e cassetti: uno sguardo alla biancheria intima Regency

Corsets and Drawers: A Look at Regency Underwear - JaneAusten.co.uk
corset

Corsetti e cassetti: uno sguardo alla biancheria intima Regency

Le giovani donne alla moda della reggenza hanno avuto la fortuna di sfuggire a una costrizione che aveva perseguitato la vita delle loro madri e in seguito sarebbero caduti alle loro figlie e nipoti: il corsetto disossato. Laddove sia la sillouette georgiana che vittoriana ha chiesto vita innaturalmente piccoli e schienali dritti, i designer durante la reggenza sono stati affascinati dalla "forma femminile naturale".

Attraversando ispirazione dalla classica statuario greco e romana (tutte le cose antiche in Grecia erano la rabbia in questo momento) che consentivano abiti da colonna con fluttuazione minima. Laddove un tempo strati di cerchi e sottovesti rientrano, ora la forma del vestito quasi moderna prese il sopravvento. La vita veniva sollevata appena sotto il seno mentre le gonne pendevano libere.

Questi nuovi stili hanno richiesto un nuovo tipo di indumento di supporto. Così nacque il corsetto corto, aarente ai moderni indumenti intimi di oggi. A differenza dei corsetti vittoriani che si agganciavano nella parte anteriore e si allacciavano sulla parte posteriore, i corsetti più vecchi si allacciavano solo sulla parte posteriore in modo a zig -zag usando una corda - l'allacciatura cross sarebbe stata inventata in seguito - e irrigidì nella parte anteriore con un legno intagliato o un busk osseo che ha creato una postura dritta e separato il seno per l'effetto "sollevato", così popolare al momento. I corsetti di pre-reggenza limitavano il corpo dai fianchi alla linea del busto e venivano tenuti con cinghie sulle spalle in cui potevano essere allacciati le maniche dell'abito.

Questi corsetti potrebbero essere un indumento separato indossato sotto i vestiti o usati come corpetto del vestito stesso. Sarebbe indossato per una chemise e calze (ginocchio alla coscia e trattenuto con giarrettiere).

Nelle sottoveste e le borse del 1700 sarebbero state indossate su questo, sebbene durante la reggenza questo fosse ridotto a una sottoveste e solo se necessario. I cassetti non sarebbero stati inventati fino al 1806. Fino ad allora, le donne si liberarono da qualsiasi altro indumento intimo. Il "nuovo" corsetto di reggenza era una combinazione intelligente di cinghie, nastri e lacci. Sono arrivati ​​in molti stili: alcuni per il controllo della figura, alcuni per aver spinto il seno su e fuori in un display a forma di scaffale. Due di questi tipi sono mostrati in questa foto del 1819 soggiorni dal Museo Kyoto in Giappone. Sarebbero stati irrigiditi con il cordone o i soggiorni, sebbene la figura disordinata a balena stretta fosse ancora decennale.

Questi corsetti erano per lo più di supporto, simili ai reggiseni di oggi, e non restringi o pericolosi per la salute come sarebbero alcuni corsetti successivi. Certo, non tutte le donne indossavano anche corsetti! Alcuni si sono stabiliti per una chimica disossato (o sottovesti di bordo) o una chimica con un nastro legato sotto il seno per il miglioramento. Tutto dipendeva dallo stile richiesto, dalla forma di chi lo indossa e dagli investimenti finanziari che desideravano fare.

Vengono raccontate molte storie, sia le ragazze divertenti che esasperanti hanno avuto nel modificare il loro sottobosco per soddisfare i loro stili e bisogni. Vengono raccontate storie di ragazze che indossavano calze rosa (scioccanti!) Per simulare la carne nuda e altre che hanno smorzato le loro chemizzini per un effetto trasparente attraverso i loro abiti bianchi e pastello (popolare con gli uomini, ne sono sicuro!)

I cassetti, una versione modificata del capo maschile, legata in vita con una corda e divisa nel mezzo, erano rari per l'usura delle donne per i primi 20 anni del 1800, sebbene popolare sulle ragazze. La principessa Charlotte dovrebbe avere Li indossati con gioia, con grande stupore di molte altre donne, sebbene questa donna non avesse la stessa esperienza felice:

"Sono le cose più brutte che abbia mai visto: non le metterò mai più. e non riteneva corretto raccoglierlo, e così se ne andò lasciandolo in strada dietro di me, e il pizzo aveva costato sei scellini un cortile ... "

Ovviamente gli uomini avevano i propri oggetti: le camicie sono un'invenzione relativamente nuova, ma prima dell'avvento dei cassetti degli uomini, non avevano altro che le loro lunghe camicie da infilare nei loro pantaloni. Più tardi, sono stati inventati cassetti, simili ai pantaloncini con un bastone e le alette abbottonate, con grande sollievo. Al momento della reggenza, gli uomini normalmente indossavano cassetti di cotone, una camicia di lino o mussola, forse un corsetto (sì, nemmeno gli uomini fuggivano!) A seconda dell'uomo, calze e poi pantaloni (o mutande), Cravat, Cravat, Cravat, Cravat, Cravat, Cravat, Cravat, giubbotto e cappotto.

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