Corsetti e cassetti: uno sguardo alla biancheria intima Regency

Le giovani donne alla moda della Reggenza hanno avuto la fortuna di sfuggire a una costrizione che aveva perseguitato la vita delle loro madri e che in seguito sarebbe caduta nelle loro figlie e nipoti: il corsetto disossato. Laddove sia la sillouette georgiana che quella vittoriana richiedevano una vita innaturalmente piccola e una schiena dritta, i designer durante la Reggenza erano affascinati dalla "forma femminile naturale". Traendo ispirazione dalla classica statuaria greca e romana (tutte le cose dell'antica Grecia erano di gran moda in questo momento), consentivano abiti a colonna con balze minime. Dove una volta si reggevano strati di cerchi e sottovesti, ora ha preso il sopravvento la forma del vestito quasi moderna. La vita era sollevata appena sotto il seno mentre le gonne pendevano libere. Questi nuovi stili richiedevano un nuovo tipo di indumento di supporto. Così è nato il corsetto corto, antenato degli indumenti intimi moderni di oggi. A differenza dei corsetti vittoriani che si agganciavano sul davanti e allacciavano la schiena, i corsetti più vecchi allacciavano solo la parte posteriore a zigzag usando una corda - l'allacciatura incrociata sarebbe stata inventata più tardi - e irrigiditi nella parte anteriore con un busk di legno o osso intagliato che creava una postura dritta e separava i seni per l'effetto “ansante”, così diffuso all'epoca. I corsetti pre-reggenza vincolavano il corpo dai fianchi alla linea del busto e venivano fissati con cinghie sulle spalle dove potevano essere allacciate le maniche dell'abito. Questi corsetti potrebbero essere un indumento separato indossato sotto i vestiti o usati come corpetto del vestito stesso. Sarebbe indossato sopra una chemise e calze (dal ginocchio alla coscia e sorrette da reggicalze). Nel 1700 le sottovesti e le borse laterali sarebbero state indossate sopra, anche se durante la Reggenza questo è stato ridotto a una sottoveste, e solo se necessario. I cassetti non sarebbero stati inventati fino al 1806. Fino ad allora, le donne erano libere da qualsiasi altro indumento intimo. Il "nuovo" corsetto Regency era una combinazione intelligente di cinghie, nastri e lacci. Erano disponibili in molti stili, alcuni per controllare la figura, altri per spingere il petto in alto e in fuori in un display a forma di scaffale. Due di questi tipi sono mostrati in questa immagine di 1819 soggiorni dal Museo di Kyoto in Giappone. Sarebbero stati irrigiditi con corde o tiranti, anche se la figura tesa di balena era ancora lontana decenni. Questi corsetti erano per lo più di supporto, simili ai reggiseni di oggi, e non costrittivi o pericoloso per la salute come sarebbero stati alcuni corsetti successivi. Certo, non tutte le donne indossavano nemmeno i corsetti! Alcuni hanno optato per una chemise disossata (o sottoveste disossata con corpino) o una chemise con un nastro legato sotto il seno per il miglioramento. Tutto dipendeva dallo stile ricercato, dalla forma di chi lo indossava e dall'investimento finanziario che desiderava fare.

Si raccontano molte storie, sia del divertimento che dell'esasperazione delle ragazze nel modificare la propria biancheria intima per adattarla ai propri stili e bisogni. Si raccontano storie di ragazze che indossavano calze rosa (scioccanti!) Per simulare la carne nuda e altre che inumidivano le loro camicie per un effetto trasparente attraverso i loro abiti bianchi e pastello (apprezzati dagli uomini, ne sono sicuro!). La versione modificata dell'indumento maschile, annodato in vita con una corda e spaccato al centro, era raro per l'abbigliamento femminile nei primi 20 anni del 1800, sebbene popolare tra le ragazze. La principessa Charlotte dovrebbe avere li indossava con gioia, con grande stupore di molte altre donne, sebbene questa donna non avesse la stessa felice esperienza: "Sono le cose più brutte che abbia mai visto: non li rimetterò mai più. Ho trascinato il mio vestito per terra per paura che qualcuno li spiasse. Il mio miglior paio di dimity con vero pizzo svizzero è del tutto inutile per me perché ho perso una gamba e non ho ritenuto opportuno raccoglierlo, e così me ne sono andato lasciandolo in strada dietro di me, e il pizzo era costato sei scellini a iarda ... " Certo - Gli uomini avevano i loro oggetti - Le magliette intime sono un'invenzione relativamente nuova, ma prima dell'avvento dei cassetti da uomo, non avevano nient'altro che le loro lunghe camicie da infilare nei pantaloni. Successivamente, furono inventati dei cassetti, simili a pantaloncini con coulisse e risvolti abbottonati, con grande sollievo di tutti. Al tempo della Reggenza, gli uomini indossavano normalmente mutande di cotone, una camicia di lino o di mussola, forse un corsetto (sì, nemmeno gli uomini scappavano!) A seconda dell'uomo, calze e poi pantaloni (o mutande), cravatta, gilet e cappotto. Perché non sfogliare il nostro sezione costumenel nostro negozio di articoli da regalo online per costumi, modelli e accessori?

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